How To Choose the Right Lapel for Your Custom Suit
Lapels have long been a defining feature of suit jackets and tuxedos, playing a crucial role in defining the overall appearance of these garments. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the rich history of lapels, their evolution over time, and current trends in lapel design. We will also discuss how to choose the right lapel style based on body type, use case, and personal style preferences. Finally, we will highlight the expertise of Capitol Hill Clothiers in designing custom suits with the perfect lapel to suit any individual's unique taste.
If you’re looking for other style tips, check out our blog posts on suit trends for 2024 below
Men - https://www.capitolhillclothiers.com/style-guides/trending-suits-for-men
Women - https://www.capitolhillclothiers.com/style-guides/9-suit-trends-for-women-in-2024
A Brief History of Lapels
The lapel, an iconic and essential element of professional attire, has a rich history that dates back to the 17th century. It originated as a functional component of men's coats, designed to protect the wearer from harsh weather by fastening the collar around the neck. Over time, the lapel evolved into a decorative feature, reflecting the social and economic status of the wearer. By the 19th century, lapels became a prominent aspect of formal wear, with various styles emerging, such as the notch, peak, and shawl lapels. These styles were often associated with specific occasions or professions, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to the attire. As women began to enter the workforce and adopt tailored clothing, the lapel also found its way onto women's professional garments, solidifying its place as a timeless symbol of refinement and authority in the realm of professional attire.
Lapel Styles and Their Characteristics
There are four primary lapel styles: notched lapel, peak lapel, shawl lapel, and mandarin collar. Each of these styles has its own unique history and characteristics.
Notched Lapel
The notched lapel, a timeless and versatile design element, can be traced back to the early 20th century and has since become a standard feature in both men's and women's jackets. Originally seen on informal tweed sport coats, notched lapels have expanded their presence to include single-breasted suits, blazers, and even some formalwear. Distinguished by its triangular cutout where the collar meets the lapel, the notched lapel offers a balanced, understated aesthetic suitable for various occasions. When selecting a notched lapel for your custom suit, sport coat, or blazer, it is crucial to consider the lapel width, which should correspond with your body frame and harmonize with the garment's overall proportions. The choice of fabric and color should also complement your outfit, ensuring a polished and cohesive look. Furthermore, you may want to take into account the formality of the event, as notched lapels are generally perceived as less formal than peak lapels. By thoughtfully integrating a notched lapel into your attire, you can achieve a refined and adaptable style that effortlessly transitions from business meetings to casual gatherings.
Peak Lapel
The peak lapel has its origins in the late 19th century and has since become a staple in both men's and women's formalwear. Initially popularized by Victorian-era tailcoats, peak lapels have evolved over time to adorn various types of garments, including double-breasted suits, tuxedos, and even contemporary single-breasted jackets. The peak lapel is characterized by its distinct V-shape, with the edges extending beyond the collar line, drawing the eye upwards and creating a slimming effect. When selecting a peak lapel for your custom suit, sport coat, or tuxedo, it is essential to consider the lapel width, which should be proportionate to your body frame and complement the overall silhouette of the garment. Additionally, the choice of fabric and color should harmonize with the rest of your ensemble, ensuring a cohesive and sophisticated appearance. Ultimately, incorporating a peak lapel into your attire can elevate your style, exuding an air of refinement and confidence suitable for any formal occasion.
Shawl Lapel
The shawl lapel originated in the 19th century as a component of the smoking jacket and later gained prominence in men's and women's formalwear. Characterized by its continuous, curved shape that smoothly transitions from the collar to the lapel, the shawl lapel is commonly associated with tuxedos, dinner jackets, and select women's blazers. Its sleek, uninterrupted lines convey a sense of sophistication and refinement, making it an ideal choice for black-tie events and other formal occasions. When selecting a shawl lapel for your custom jacket, it is essential to consider the width of the lapel, which should be proportional to your body frame and harmonize with the garment's overall silhouette. The choice of fabric and color should seamlessly blend with the rest of your ensemble, ensuring a polished and unified appearance. Additionally, it is crucial to keep in mind the level of formality required for the event, as shawl lapels are typically reserved for more upscale affairs. By thoughtfully incorporating a shawl lapel into your attire, you can exude an air of elegance and poise, perfect for making a lasting impression at any high-end gathering.
Mandarin Collar
The mandarin collar, also known as the stand collar or Nehru collar, has a rich history that traces back to ancient China. It was worn by Chinese nobility and later popularized in the 1960s by Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication for both men and women. Today, this unique collar style is seen on various garments, including suits, sport coats, and blazers, making it a versatile choice for those seeking a distinctive look. When choosing a mandarin collar for your custom attire, consider factors such as the fabric, fit, and personal style. Opt for a fabric that complements the overall design and occasion, whether it's a luxurious silk for formal events or a more casual linen for everyday wear. The fit should be snug but comfortable around the neck, ensuring a clean and polished appearance. Additionally, consider how the mandarin collar aligns with your personal style – it can be a subtle nod to cultural heritage or a bold statement piece that sets you apart from the crowd. Ultimately, a well-chosen mandarin collar can elevate your wardrobe and showcase your individuality in a timeless and sophisticated manner.
Use Cases for Each Lapel Style in DC
Notched lapels are frequently seen in Washington, DC's professional settings. They are ideal for everyday office wear, business meetings, and networking events. For both men and women, notched lapels provide a polished look that exudes confidence and sophistication. Additionally, they can be paired with various accessories, such as pocket squares and tie bars, to create a well-rounded ensemble suitable for the workplace.
Peak lapels are increasingly popular among the city's political and diplomatic circles. They are often found on double-breasted suits, dressier sport coats, and tuxedos, making them an excellent choice for high-profile events, formal gatherings, and even inaugural balls. The bold and powerful aesthetic of peak lapels makes them particularly fitting for power dressing, helping individuals make a strong impression at important functions.
Shawl lapels are a popular choice for black-tie events and sophisticated soirées in Washington, DC. Commonly seen on tuxedos and dinner jackets, shawl lapels offer a refined and elegant look that sets them apart from other lapel styles. In recent times, shawl lapels have also made their way into women's fashion, gracing the collars of stylish blazers. This lapel style is perfect for galas, charity events, and upscale receptions where a touch of glamour is desired.
Mandarin collars have been gaining traction in the DC fashion scene, offering a unique and contemporary alternative to traditional lapel styles. The mandarin collar presents a sleek and modern appearance, making it suitable for both casual and formal occasions. This collar style can be found on jackets, blouses, and dresses, allowing for versatility across various wardrobes. In Washington, DC, mandarin collars are frequently worn at cultural events, art exhibitions, and trendy gatherings, where individuals seek to showcase their fashion-forward sensibilities.
Lapels are an important consideration to make when designing your custom professional garments. Capitol Hill Clothiers can work with you to select the best one for your personal style, intended use, and versatility. If it’s time to go custom, let us know. We would love to help you design your new favorite suit.
