What Do Those “Super” Numbers Mean?
When it comes to custom suit fabrics, the term "super" is something often seen on labels. What do “super numbers” actually mean? You might have seen numbers like “Super 100s” or “Super 150s” while browsing suit options, and thought, Okay, that sounds important, but what are these numbers really telling you? Understanding these numbers is key to ensuring you choose the right custom suit fabric for your needs. It’s not just about impressing your friends with a high number, there’s a lot more to it than the prestige of a Super 250’s wool. In this post, we’ll break down what these numbers mean, how they impact your suit, and what you should keep in mind when choosing the right fabric for your custom suit.
What Are Super Numbers?
At its core, the "Super" number is a measure of the fineness of the wool used to make a wool fabric. This number indicates how thin the fibers that comprise the fabric to which the number is attributed. The lower the Super number, the thicker the fibers that make up the fabric are. The higher the Super number, the finer and thinner the wool fibers. This results in a fabric that’s lighter, softer, and often more luxurious to the touch. In theory, a higher Super number means a more refined fabric, something that feels smoother against the skin and has a sleeker, more elegant appearance.
Super numbers aren’t just some marketing tactic to raise the price of your suit though, there actually is a governing body that grants the use of these numbers based on specific qualifications and verification of quality. The International Wool Textile Organization dictates that “The word SUPER (as in SUPER 100s for example) can only be used to describe fabrics made from pure new wool, and the "Super S" value is determined by, and must comply with, the Maximum Mean Fibre Diameter values” in the table here.
But here’s the important nuance: Just because a fabric has a higher Super number doesn’t always mean it’s the best choice for you. There are several factors that influence the decision of which fabric to choose, and Super numbers are just one of them.
Super numbers range in increments of 10 from Super 80’s to Super 250’s. Each number corresponds with the diameter of the wool fibers that make up the fabric in microns.
Decoding the Super Scale
When looking at Super numbers, you might see a range of numbers like Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s, and even up to Super 200s or beyond. But what’s the difference, and which one is best?
Here’s a breakdown of some common Super numbers:
Super 80s - 100s – The Sweet Spot for Everyday Use
Super 100s is considered the entry-level of high-quality wool fabrics. It’s a versatile fabric that strikes a great balance between comfort, durability, and luxury. A Super 100s fabric is durable enough to withstand daily wear and tear, while still providing a soft, smooth finish. Though these fall on the “lower” end of the Super scale, don’t mistake a Super 100’s fabric for being “cheap”. Each grade of number has its strong suits (pun intended) and Capitol Hill Clothiers always recommends super 100’s fabrics for people who wear the same suit a few times a week, commute daily, move around a lot in their suits, and generally need to be able to rely on their suit to be sturdy and long-lasting. This isn’t for the occasional suit-wearer, this is the daily driver.
Super 110s - 140s – A Step Up
Super 130s wool is still durable but is finer and softer than Super 100s. Suits made from Super 130s are lighter and smoother to the touch, making them a great option for warmer weather or those who prefer a lighter suit. However, Super 130s are still relatively durable and generally hold up well over time.
If you’re looking for something that has a high-quality feel but still offers durability, fabrics in this range are a solid choice. They’re also great for occasions where you want to look sharp but don’t want to be overly delicate about the fabric.
Super 150s - 190s – Luxurious, But Delicate
When you start getting into the Super 150s and above, you’re entering a more luxurious territory. These fabrics are much finer, softer, and lighter than lower-numbered Super fabrics. They feel amazing to the touch and have a more elegant drape, making them an excellent choice for formal occasions or those who want a high-end suit.
But here's the catch: Fabrics above ~Super 180s are more delicate and require more care. They may be less durable, especially for daily use. If you’re someone who wears your suits frequently or puts them through heavy use, a Super 150s suit might not be the best long-term investment. For occasional wear or special events, however, it can be a great choice. Capitol Hill Clothiers usually recommends this range for tuxedos, seasonal suits or sport coats, or a few “important business meeting” suits.
Super 200s - 250s – Ultra-Luxury
When you reach the Super 200s and beyond, you’re dealing with some of the finest wools available. These fabrics are incredibly soft, light, and have an almost ethereal feel to them. They’re typically reserved for the highest-end, bespoke suits and are often used for high-profile events.
However, there is absolutely room to be frank here. Fabrics in the Super 200s range are extremely delicate and require an active level of care from the owner. All the general principles of taking care of your custom suit are that much more important. The quality and fineness of the wool also makes these fabrics more expensive, making them a choice primarily for those who truly appreciate the pinnacles of luxury and have a reason to wear it.
How Super Numbers Tangibly Affect Suit Fabric
Fabric Feel
The primary factor most people consider when choosing fabric is how it feels. As the Super number increases, the fabric becomes finer and softer to the touch. Super 100s will feel smooth, but there's a noticeable difference as you move to Super 120s or Super 150s. Those fabrics are noticeably softer and more luxurious. This finer texture is part of what makes higher Super fabrics feel premium against your skin.
However, this isn’t just about luxury, it’s also about comfort. A higher Super number means thinner wool fibers, which can create a more breathable fabric. This can be especially desirable if you're looking for a suit that feels light and comfortable to wear throughout the day, especially in warmer environments or during longer periods. This isn’t a guarantee though, the weave of the fabric plays an important part as well. A hopsack weave Super 100’s fabric will be more breathable and better for warm weather than a Super 130’s tweed.
Fabric Weight
One of the most noticeable effects of a higher Super number is the weight of the fabric. Super 100s tends to be heavier and more robust, making it ideal for cooler months or when durability is a top concern. On the other hand, Super 120s, Super 150s, and beyond are lighter and more delicate. Again, the fabric weave makes just as big a difference here, so don’t make a decision without feeling the fabrics for yourself.
Lighter fabrics are often sought after for their ability to create a sharper, crisper look without feeling heavy on the body. A lighter fabric, such as a Super 150s, can also make the suit more comfortable in hot climates. However, this weight trade-off comes with considerations for how long the fabric will hold up under wear and tear. If you want to dive into fabric weights, check out this Style Guide.
Fabric Durability
Durability is probably the biggest part of the conversation when I fit someone for custom suits in DC. The wearer’s lifestyle, body type, and existing wardrobe all factor into which level of fabric is actually the right one for them. The finer the wool, the more delicate the fabric is. Super 100s fabrics are typically more durable and can stand up to daily use without losing their integrity. As the Super number increases, the wool fibers get thinner and more fragile, meaning the fabric may be prone to pilling or even damage from friction. If you’re walking around Washington, DC in a suit 5+ days a week, chances are you’ll be better off with a lower Super Number fabric.
Super 150s and above are more delicate, which makes them less ideal for suits you wear every day or those subjected to high levels of wear and tear. For example, someone who wears a suit five times a week for business might find that a Super 100s or Super 120s fabric will last longer and be easier to maintain than something finer. So, when considering durability, think about how often you plan to wear the suit and whether you’re willing to take extra care with more fragile fabrics.
Fabric Appearance
The appearance of the fabric also changes with the Super number. Finer wools with higher Super numbers tend to have a more refined drape and sheen. These fabrics hold their shape better, give off a subtle shine, and drape elegantly across the body. This is why higher Super numbers are often preferred for more formal occasions, where the suit needs to look its sharpest.
In contrast, fabrics with a lower Super number (like Super 100s) still look great but tend to have a slightly more matte finish. They may not have the same level of sheen, but they provide a crisp, business-ready appearance that’s appropriate for daily wear. Yet again, the weave, pattern, and overall design of the fabric plays a more significant role in this. There are lower Super number fabrics with sheen and higher Super number fabrics without it.
Fabric Price
Price is one of the most tangible differences between fabrics with varying Super numbers, at least in the eyes of most consumers. As a general rule, the finer the wool, the higher the price. Super 100s fabric is relatively affordable, while Super 150s and above can carry a premium price tag. This price hike reflects the more complex and time-consuming process of producing finer wool fibers, as well as the added softness and luxury these fabrics provide. If you want to check out how this corresponds to brands and how Capitol Hill Clothiers prices our custom suits in Washington, DC, click here.
However, it's important to note that the price isn’t just about the “Super” number—you're also paying for the rarity and expertise required to produce such fine wool. If you're on a budget or need a fabric that can withstand regular use without requiring constant maintenance, a lower Super number like Super 100s or Super 120s may be the better value for you.
Questions to Ask Yourself Before Deciding on a Custom Suit Fabric
Your Lifestyle and Suit Usage
How often will I wear this suit? If it’s going to be a daily driver, go with a lower super number. If it will be used for a special occasion or won’t be worn with great consistency, you can wear as high a number as you’d like.
What other suits do I have? If you’ve got a solid suit rotation already, then this might be your opportunity to fill in the gaps. Let’s say most of your suits are still getting good use day to day but this one is going to be special. That gives you room to invest in something nicer.
Have I ever destroyed a suit? This might sound silly, but it’s a worthwhile question. If you’ve ever worn through the crotch or thighs of your suit pants, chances are the fabric was too fine for the way you move in your suits. Friction has always been the enemy of fine fabrics, so if you know you’re hard on your garments, go low. If you’ve never had an issue, you’re safe to go higher.
Do I value quality at a premium? Some people just won’t settle for anything but the best. Good on you if that’s the case! You now have a rubric for the numbers that correspond to the quality you’re looking for.
Climate and Weather
Do I need something all-season? Four-season wools are a common thing to see. That definition is far more vague and open to interpretation than Super numbers, but I digress. Most of the time people wear suits, they are in climate-controlled environments. If it’s cold outside, it’s more important to have a great overcoat than it is to have a specialized suit for the season. As Super numbers go, seasonality doesn’t have much to do with this question. The fabric weave and weight do.
Do my current suits get rained/snowed on? If you’re not an outerwear person and tend to let the weather happen to your garments, you’ll probably be better off on the low end of the Super spectrum. All fabrics can be cleaned, but a lower super wool will be cheaper to replace if the worst case scenario happens.
Your Budget
Do I care what my custom suits cost? If you do, there is a Super number that fits in your sweet spot, guaranteed. If you don’t, the decision making process then shifts back to your use cases and preferences.
Is this custom suit an investment piece? If you’re working with Capitol Hill Clothiers to design a custom wedding suit or super fine tuxedo, the budget spectrum can be nudged in the direction of quality.
The Look You’re After
Do I need my suit to look luxurious? This one’s kind of a trick question. The look of a suit comes down to fit and design more than it does to the fabric range. That being said, if you’re aiming for a luxe fabric with a silky sheen and perfect drape, I have a feeling you already have your answer.
Don’t Let the Numbers Fool You
While it’s easy to get caught up in the allure of higher Super numbers, it’s important to remember that the best fabric for your suit ultimately depends on your individual needs. Higher Super numbers certainly provide a more luxurious feel, but they also come with trade-offs in terms of durability and maintenance.
When choosing the fabric for your custom suit, think about how often you’ll wear it, your budget, and what kind of look you’re going for. Don’t just choose a fabric based on the number. Choose the one that fits your lifestyle, work, and preferences. Ultimately, the best suit is the one that feels right for you.
